Top 10 tips for composting in schools

Composting is a fantastic opportunity for communities to get together to create a greener environment.

Nowhere is this more valuable than in schools, where children can be taught skills that will last them a lifetime.

Composting enables people to take responsibility for their own waste and deal with it in the most environmentally-friendly way – onsite where it is produced – reducing the energy and cost required to transport it further afield for treatment.

 When people compost they become aware of how much waste they produce; as a result they tend to waste less and recycle more.

What is composting?

Composting is the natural process that occurs when insects, worms and micro-organisms break down organic waste (food scraps, garden waste, paper waste) into a nutritious substance – compost – that can be used to feed soil and plants.

By managing the composting process, we help the micro-organisms to thrive and produce compost faster.    

What are the benefits of composting?

Composting is one of the most worthwhile things you can learn. There are only a few rules, and you only have to learn them once – the laws of nature don’t change. This knowledge will serve you well through life.

Composting:

 * creates free nutrient-rich soil food for your own use

* retains moisture in the soil, so reduces the need for watering

* helps plants to grow stronger and healthier

* cuts the amount of waste sent to landfill or incineration

* reduces your carbon footprint

* has a positive impact on the environment

*  inspires children to become composters of the future

How to make it work

Compost bins are not ordinary bins; some degree of management is needed and there are a few golden rules to follow.

Experience has taught us to give composting communities the following advice:

  • At least one person/member of staff should have overall responsibility and check in on the composter every couple of days to prevent issues developing.
  • Ensure as many people as possible have access to an instruction manual so they get to know the three golden rules: the balance needed between materials; aeration; moisture levels.
  • In a school, composting should ideally be a whole-school project. For example, a lot of carbon-rich materials will be needed and it’s much easier if this can be stored in lidded containers so it’s ready for use. This can prompt fun activities such as cardboard tearing sessions. Children could also bring cardboard from home to get parents involved too.
  • To educate the whole school – staff as well as pupils – put up posters giving basic composting information for everyone who will be adding organic waste to the bin. We have A3 posters available for schools and groups, or children could design their own.  
  • Help everyone to understand that every time a caddy of food waste is added to a compost bin (adding nitrogen-rich materials) this should be followed by an equal amount of carbon-rich materials.
  • Many schools produce a lot of fruit waste, especially in the younger classes, and this needs particular attention as it has a high water content which can create a soggy mess if it’s not balanced with appropriate materials and aerated well.  Sawdust works well as a biofilter to absorb unpleasant smells. Fruit waste and sawdust should be added in thin layers and mixed well.
  • It’s a good idea if someone can keep the composting going during holidays by taking waste from home every couple of days so the bin continues to be fed.
  • Teach children that micro-organisms are living creatures, and the composting process is all about nurturing them.
  • Our blog – Compost School – a guide for absolute beginners – is a useful aid for lesson planning. It’s written simply for children to understand but is also aimed at anyone who may not have composted before.
  • Master composters are people who are passionate about composting and have trained as volunteers to share their composting knowledge. They visit schools and groups to offer advice. Check with your local authority to see if there are any in your area.

If all goes well, your composting project can expand to compost even more waste by using several compost bins or a Ridan giant tumbler, which has a cog and gear system that makes the handle easier to turn.

 Get a ‘compost chief’!

Projects involving a lot of people can hit problems if composting methods are not followed by everyone.

Occasionally, Green Johannas have been used in schools as general wastebins for food waste, without the necessary balance with carbon-rich materials, and this has inevitably led to problems. This has usually been the result of there not being a nominated ‘compost chief’ in charge.

Disappointing experiences give the impression that composting doesn’t work, which isn’t the case, so we are keen to help where we can.

What about the Green Cone?  

If you think a Green Cone Food Waste Digester might suit your aims, consider the following points:

  • You need a sunny spot in well-draining soil (not clay or chalk) where you can dig the hole required for the Cone’s underground basket.
  • One Green Cone can accept the food waste of the average family of four – about 1kg per day.
  •  Food waste lands in the underground basket; once the underground basket is full, you should stop adding waste until there is space in the basket for more.
  • Regular additions of accelerator powder are recommended – aim to use one sachet per month. Accelerator powder contains beneficial bacteria which digest the waste and boost the breakdown process.
  • As this is a food waste digester rather than a composter, no compost is produced. Instead, a nutrient-rich liquid seeps from the Cone’s underground basket and feeds surrounding soil.
  • The Green Cone doesn’t accept garden waste or paper waste.

Helpful advice

Some people are put off composting because of a fear of pests, but there are steps you can take to make a compost bin and the surrounding area so unattractive to unwanted visitors that they will go somewhere else instead. Read our blogs about how to deter pests and flies.  

How we can help

We are keen to support community composting projects. We can send you several copies of the instruction manuals for the Green Johanna and Green Cone so they can be shared out, as well as colourful A3-size posters about the Green Johanna.   Contact us at [email protected].

Benefits of the Green Johanna’s jacket

  As the temperature outside plummets so the compost in your bin might cool down, but by maintaining good composting techniques you can keep your compost ‘cooking’ even in the coldest winter periods.

In the case of the Green Johanna, adding the insulating jacket also helps.

The Johanna pictured below in January in Leeds kept its compost warm at 40 degrees Celsius while the ground temperature was at zero.

This particular Johanna received all food waste from a family of four, rising to 10 people over the Christmas period. Carbon sources include stored shredded leaves from several trees in the vicinity, as well as Christmas paper waste such as cardboard packaging, compostable wrapping paper and Christmas cards.

The Great Green Systems team tend to keep the jackets on our Green Johannas for most of the year, not just in winter, as we’re based in the chilly north of England.      

Don’t worry that using the jacket will make the Johanna too hot for worms, as one customer suggested. This is not a problem because worms can easily enter and leave the composter through the small holes in the base plate. At temperatures approaching 30 degrees Celsius they will move where it is cooler, usually the bottom of the bin where the compost is maturing, or they can leave the bin entirely.

 The jacket is made from foamed polyethylene – a lightweight, water-resistant material that is tough but flexible and designed to fit snugly to prevent cold air from circulating round the Johanna. It’s made for Great Green Systems by a specialist foam manufacturer in Northamptonshire.

When fitting the jacket, it’s important to ensure that the bottom section doesn’t cover the vents at the sides of the Johanna’s base as these are necessary for airflow.  

The jacket should be installed with the two upper sections pulled down so they overlap the section underneath by about 5 cm. Doing this means the ventilation holes are left clear.

Green Johanna wearing the Insulating Jacket

 Also check throughout autumn and winter that the vents at the bottom of the Johanna are not blocked by leaves or debris or snow. Air is taken in at ground level so keep this area clear so that air can enter freely.

The jacket can easily be removed if the compost gets too hot (above 70 degrees C) in warm weather. Compost thermometers, which have a stem to reach down into the compost, are a useful aid.    

  • TIP: Give the bin’s contents a boost by adding beneficial bacteria in bokashi bran or a layer of soil or mature compost. You can also add coffee grounds or chicken manure to add a hit of nitrogen to your mix.  

Johanna planner for winter:

  • In freezing weather limit ventilation through the Green Johanna lid’s ventilation system – twist the lid towards the minimum setting.
  • Wood chips are a great addition, creating airflow and adding plenty of fungi to the bin.
  • Keep adding to the bin – ideally about three times a week – to maintain the composting process. The Johanna’s generous 330 litre capacity means the compost mass acts as an insulating factor. 
  • Chop items up. Smaller items provide a larger surface area for more microbes to work on. 
  • Aerate regularly – about twice a week – to ensure the aerobic microbes breaking down the waste get enough air.  Without air, the contents will turn anaerobic and start to smell.   
  • Check moisture levels – by doing the squeeze test; grab handfuls of the bin’s contents and squeeze. One or two drops of liquid should appear. The ideal consistency is like a wrung-out bath sponge.

When I got the kids a wormery for Christmas

Last Christmas I thought long and hard before getting presents for my best friend’s grandchildren – Reggie, 6, and Maggie, 2.

You don’t want to waste money or add to the mountain of discarded junk by buying pointless gifts.  

Plus, I always like to get practical, useful things – I’m not bothered about being popular (‘Oh great, another swimming cap/homework bag from Auntie Julie.’)

But this time I upped my game.

Eco gifts are gifts that keep on giving. It would be easy to drive children to despair about the climate crisis, but how much better to show them instead what they can do to help? Yes, tackling the climate emergency is a big job, but it’s one that each and every one of us – no matter how young – can play a part in.

And so I gave Reggie and Maggie a wormery.

Why? Because wormeries (also called worm farms) are a great way to introduce children to small-scale composting and the marvellous way that nature deals with waste. Not only does vermicomposting (from the Latin ‘vermis’ for worm) keep organic waste out of landfill, but it also shows how easily worms can turn our food scraps into a highly nutritious food for plants

Yes, there were quizzical looks from the kids as they opened the box – it was clearly not a fort or a unicorn castle – but they were very keen to set up the Maze Worm Farm and probably very relieved that it wasn’t a pack of thermal vests. As it was the coldest time of year, they set the worm farm up in the greenhouse, which provided warmth and shelter for the winter, and waited excitedly for their worms to arrive. (The worms come separately through the post from a supplier of specially selected composting worms.)

The children’s reaction when the worms arrived was a mixture of ‘Eurgh’ (Maggie) and ‘Ooh’ (Reggie).

Reggie was keen to show how brave he was and gently introduced a worm to his sister, who also became brave but was happy just looking. They made a cosy home for the worms, providing a blanket of newspaper to keep them warm and safe in the dark.   

Reggie and Maggie noticed the worms were not very active for a few weeks, probably because of settling in at such a cold time of year, but then they soon started tucking in (the worms, not the kids).

 Like most young children they were expecting fast results, so were surprised to learn it can take two to three months to get worm casts (poo, since you ask). You can’t rush these things…

Children start a wormery

Maggie and Little Bear waiting for worm casts

But when you do harvest the casts you realise why gardeners call this stuff ‘black gold’. One tablespoon of worm casts provides enough nutrients for a plant to thrive throughout the growing season.

Ten weeks in and Reggie and Maggie were the proud harvesters of some of this black gold.

It was great to see the change in Maggie’s attitude to the worms – she went from being afraid of them to become knowledgeable and confident looking after them.

Harvesting worm casts

Wonderful things about worm farms

  • They make great projects for children as this subject can grow in complexity as the child grows – it can be super simple for pre-schoolers but gradually takes in chemistry, biology, ecology, the food cycle and carbon cycle as well as gardening and growing your own food.  
  • Children will develop respect for these humble but mighty creatures. Through tunnelling, worms aerate and improve the soil, providing nutrients for plants to flourish. Without them the earth would become cold, hard and sterile.
  • Studies have shown that the simple act of introducing worms to degraded soil in poor regions of the world has increased plant yields by 280%.
  • Worms are easy to feed on vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, and crushed eggshells.
  • Convenient to set up indoors or outdoors in a sheltered spot.

Encouraged by how well Reggie and Maggie took to vermicomposting, I decided that when it came to Easter they didn’t need yet another boring Easter egg from Auntie Julie.

Not when there are other fabulous presents to be had, such as membership of the Earthworm Society!

 I like to think they’ll thank me one day.

Julie

Don’t bin that pumpkin! Feed the earth instead

Remember, remember, come the first of November,

Halloween brought fun and mirth,

But don’t let that pumpkin

Rot in a wastebin

When it could nourish the earth.

Along with all the tricks and treats, every year Halloween brings horror stories about the millions of pumpkins that end up in landfill or incineration contributing to greenhouse gases.  But it doesn’t have to be that way.

Now is a great time to get composting so your pumpkin waste can go in a compost bin, not a waste bin.

In composting terms pumpkins are nitrogen-rich Greens to balance with carbon-rich Browns. If they have been used as lanterns, you should remove all items used as decoration, such as candles, wax, foil etc. Smash the pumpkins or cut them up into pieces – a larger surface area will attract more composting microorganisms, resulting in faster breakdown. Pumpkins can be smashed with a hammer or spade. We also find the cutters in Halloween lantern carving sets to be useful for cutting the pumpkin into pieces.

Master composter Rod Weston prefers to use the back of a spade as it is ‘quicker, easier, and produces more of an easily composted mush’.

Pumpkins are easier to smash if they have been kept in the warm and have started to rot.

For loads of ideas and tips on different methods of using and composting pumpkins, see ‘Composting Pumpkins’ on www.carryoncomposting.com

Smashing pumpkins

Why not make an occasion of pumpkin disposal and go along to a Pumpkin Smash? These are organised events where people are invited to take their used pumpkin lanterns to be smashed up in a variety of fun ways and then composted, putting nutrients back into the soil.

Check to see if there’s a Pumpkin Smash taking place near you. They’re a great way to teach kids about composting.

If you live in the Leicester area you probably know about the popular Pumpkin Smash at the Stokes Wood Allotments site. These events are usually followed by a practical session on composting pumpkins, including using a Green Johanna composter. People are encouraged to also collect pumpkins from friends, schools or pubs to help reduce waste.

 Let’s hope this great idea catches on and we see more Pumpkin Smashes all over the country.

TIP: If you use battery-powered tealights inside a lantern, the insides will be kept fresh enough to eat later.

SO:

Don’t bin that pumpkin –

It’s better to get a Johanna!

For a happy Halloween ending – get children involved in composting by letting them smash the pumpkin with a hammer and add the pieces to the compost bin, stirring in well together with woody garden waste, autumn leaves or scrunched paper and torn cardboard.

If you’d rather eat your pumpkin – yes, the whole pumpkin – this recipe’s for you.

We got it from Chef Dan at Kitche, the food waste fighting app. We tried and tested it and found it totally delicious.

ZERO WASTE PUMPKIN SOUP

Serves – 4

Time – 1 hr 30 mins

Ingredients

1 medium large pumpkin

3 large onions

3-4 garlic cloves,

Olive oil

1 litre vegetable stock

1 can coconut milk (optional)

Sprig of rosemary

2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper

Method

1. Wash, cut in half and gut your pumpkin, making sure to separate the flesh and seeds.

2. Crush garlic and finely chop the onions and add them to the pan, add oil and simmer until slightly golden.

3. Chop remaining pumpkin into large cubes and add them to a large pan with the pulp.

4. Finely chop your rosemary and add to the pan with your bay leaves, which you can leave whole.

5. Add your veg stock, making sure the ingredients are covered.

6. Add coconut milk if using.

7. Put on lid and let the pan come to the boil. Once bubbling, turn the heat down so the soup is simmering. Sort out the seeds while waiting.

8. The soup will take at least an hour to cook. Make sure the pumpkin skin is soft (this can take a little longer depending on the type of pumpkin).

9. Once it is ready, remember to take out the bay leaves and add salt and pepper to taste. Use a hand blender to make the soup smooth and creamy. Add water if required until it is your desired consistency. Can be stored in the fridge or freezer.

What to do with your pumpkin seeds?

The seeds make a great garnish. Lay them out on a baking tray and lightly salt them. They only take 5 – 10 minutes and burn easily. If you don’t want the seeds on soup, save them till spring and plant them in your garden.

***

 We also like this idea for pumpkin seeds from the organic online store Abel and Cole:

Give seeds a rinse, then toss in a little olive oil, salt and paprika and fry them for 5 minutes until golden brown – a great snack to serve at Halloween parties.

Leaf mould turns autumn leaves into garden gold

If you’re tired of taking bags of autumn leaves to the tip or paying the council to take them away, why not turn them into leaf mould instead?

Leaf mould is a fabulous soil improver that’s produced from decomposed autumn leaves that have been left to rot down. It has similar properties to peat – it helps to rebuild soil and store carbon – but has the benefit of being a renewable resource.

Like compost, it will improve the physical structure of your soil, increasing water retention by around 50 per cent. It also provides a habitat for earthworms and beneficial bacteria.

Making leaf mould was our family’s entry into composting. Our garden is swamped with leaves every autumn as it’s overlooked by several trees.  The cost mounted as we paid the council to take away our bags of raked leaves, so we finally decided to get two 900L Graf Thermo King composters to reap the benefits ourselves. 

What to do with autumn leaves?

The Royal Horticultural Society encourages gardeners to leave autumn leaves on borders as they encourage worm activity and increase humus content in soil. But leaves have an annoying habit of not staying where they’re put; they tend to team up with the wind to dance around and end up on the lawn or path, and in our case the hallway too.

 So it’s good to keep a balance between the leaves you sweep and the leaves you leave. Leave the leaves on soil and around trees and hedges as they replenish the soil with nutrients as they decompose, providing food throughout winter. Removing leaves can contribute to the slow death of trees from malnutrition. Leaves also protect tree roots from weather extremes.

If the leaves are dry they will blow away so dampen them with rainwater from a water butt to weigh them down a bit.

 Although leaves create a habitat for insects and pollinators, too many can attract rats and ticks so don’t let huge piles grow. Rake them off lawns and plants to prevent them smothering growth.

Stockpile for compost

Keep some leaves in storage for your compost bin; stockpile them so you have readily available Browns (carbon) to balance the Greens (nitrogen). Most people find they have a ready supply of food waste providing them with nitrogen-rich content but finding carbon-rich Browns can be harder, especially through winter.

  • Store dry dead leaves in old compost bags or lidded containers next to the compost bin so they’re ready when needed. 
  • You might want to wait until all the leaves have fallen unless you don’t mind a lot of raking.

How to make leaf mould

Making leaf mould is a simple, relatively slow process, relying on the action of fungi rather than the faster heat-generating bacteria of the composting process.

  • To collect the leaves, you can rake them up into a pile or set your mower on a high cut setting and mow them up, using the grass collector added to the back of the mower. This mulches them up for you. You can also use a shredder.
  • Shredding the leaves increases the surface area in contact with microbes, speeding up decomposition. Shredded leaves also take up less space if you don’t have much room to store them and they’re also less likely to mat down in a bin, excluding air from the compost.
  • You can also whizz them up with an edge trimmer in a dustbin (like using a food stick blender) or use a pair of hedge clippers and a board.
  •  Some leaves break down more quickly than others. Evergreen leaves take far longer to rot and should only be added in small quantities.

Storing leaves

The most basic way of storing leaves is to keep them in a black bin bag, pierced at the bottom and sides to allow the contents to breathe.  If the leaves are very dry, moisten them before putting them in the bag. You don’t need to add anything else – just the leaves.

If you prefer a container, the Thermo King compost bins that we use make life simpler because:

  • Two large flaps make it easy to remove compost.
  • The lid allows humid air to escape and is adjustable to summer and winter weather conditions to regulate air circulation.
  • The base allows micro-organisms to enter whilst deterring rodents.

How can I use my leaf mould?

If leaves have been left to rot for two years or more, they can be used in seed-sowing compost or mixed equally with sharp sand, garden compost and soil for use in potting compost. The leaf mould will be dark brown in colour with an earthy smell and crumbly texture, like compost.

  • As mentioned earlier, leaf mould makes great mulch and soil improver, and if less than two years old can be used as autumn top-dressing for lawns or winter-covering for bare soil. Soil needs more winter cover than you might imagine – around 5 – 7cms.

Autumn glory – leaves left around the trees at Yorkshire Sculpture Park, Wakefield.

A clean sweep

If you can’t bear to see leaves going to waste, why not join the eco-warriors all over the world who sweep pavements in their neighbourhoods to collect leaves for composting? A few words of advice if you do:

  • Don’t sweep busy streets because the leaves could be contaminated with pollution from traffic fumes.
  • Stick to quiet areas or alleyways where there is no traffic so no fumes and no soil/trees needing to be fed over winter. On pathways leaves are wasted, either creating a slip hazard or dispersed by wind and rain. You just need to watch out for hidden dog poo.   

Julie

Why should I compost?

‘I don’t garden so why should I compost?’ This was what a friend said to me recently.

Where to start to answer this question?

Composting is of course an obvious activity for gardeners – you make your own top-quality plant food by recycling your organic waste, including garden waste.

 Like my friend, I too am no gardener.  I started growing a few things during the pandemic and finally realised, when I saw the transforming effect of plants, why gardeners do what they do.   

But the point I tried to make in answering my friend was that it wasn’t for the sake of plants that I started composting but for the sake of the soil itself.

A health soil sign that reads 'Healthy soil is the beating heart of organic growing - full of life and support life'.

 When I learned a few years ago what magical powers compost has in rebuilding the poor, degraded earth of the Earth, I realised that composting was a no-brainer.

The health of our soils is fundamental to life as we know it, but according to the charity Garden Organic, half the planet’s topsoil has been lost in the last 150 years.

And yet there’s something we can all do about it! Home composting might seem a small act on an individual level but multiplied by millions it’s huge.    

Climate crisis ally

For instance, did you know that one of compost’s superpowers is to help soil capture carbon in the atmosphere and pull it down into the ground? Along with oceans and forests, soil is an important carbon storage medium. And yet we’ve been letting the organic ingredients for compost rot in landfill for years, emitting greenhouse gases instead of capturing them. It makes no sense to throw nutrients away as rubbish when we can easily separate them to speed up the natural breakdown process.

 According to WRAP, the waste reduction charity, a home composting bin can divert approximately 150 kg per household per year of organic waste from landfill or treatment centres.

Save our soils

The minimum we can all do is to ensure that soil is not left bare. Bare soil is vulnerable to erosion, weeds and carbon loss.

  • Cover soil with mulch and just leave it. Chuck it on in layers of around 5cms. You can cover borders, around shrubs, trees and bushes. Worms will come up and take the compost back down into the earth where it will improve the soil structure.
  • Compost also helps worms to thrive, and they need all the help they can get, under onslaught as they are from chemical sprays, artificial grass and the paving-over of gardens.    
  • Give your lawn a boost by spreading compost thinly over it. Worms will pull it down into the soil, which will boost soil quality and by extension the grass.

Benefits for us

Michael Kennard (pictured) the founder of the food waste collection service Compost Club, has studied soil biology and is keen to spread the word about how soil is the foundation of our health. If we destroy it, it’s to our detriment.

‘Everything is a reflection of the soil,’ he says. ‘If the plants have that natural cycle going on, they’re really healthy. When we eat those plants, that’s what informs our gut health.’

Other benefits that compost provides include:  

  • preventing erosion
  • improving drainage
  • encouraging worm activity. Studies have shown that the simple act of introducing worms to degraded soil in poor regions of the world has increased plant yields by 280%.
  • preventing flooding. As more and more gardens are paved over there is less and less earth to absorb heavy rainfall. In order to slow down runoff and encourage water infiltration into soil, swap paving for plants and mulch, or ensure paving is permeable. In his book The Science of Gardening, Dr Stu Farrimond says that covering soil with mulches in late autumn protects it from pummelling winter rainfall (each bullet-like drop travels up to 20mph).

Benefits for plants;

Used on plants, compost holds on to important nutrients, improving the plant’s quality while also protecting it from pests and diseases.

 As compost breaks down further, it releases important nutrients into the soil, including the main nutrients that plants need: nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Compost also increases the number and variety of beneficial bacteria and fungi in the soil, which helps plants to grow.

The ability of compost to absorb water is important as it’s able to slowly release water to grass and plants so they need watering less frequently. This is obviously vital in hot weather and droughts. Studies on compost’s water-retaining abilities have shown that for every 1% of organic matter content, soil can hold 16,500 gallons of plant-available water per acre of soil down to one foot deep.

Compost also helps water to get to plant roots more effectively by reducing crust forming on soil, so water can get into the soil more easily, and by helping to disperse water laterally from where it hits the ground, which means it will evaporate less quickly.

But I don’t have time to compost

Composting can be as time-consuming as you want to make it. If you’re pushed for time, go for cold composting.  If you want to invest a bit more time and effort, try hot composting, which means a wider variety of food waste can be added to the bin and compost produced faster.  

Or use bokashi bins, which ferment food waste thanks to the addition of beneficial bacteria in the form of a bran or spray. Once it has been left to ferment for a couple of weeks, this pre-compost mixture can then be added to a composter.

People whose local council operates a food waste collection might think, Well the council composts my food waste, so I don’t have to. But many people take the view that if they are already separating food waste to leave out for the council to collect, they might as well compost this valuable resource themselves at home for the benefit of their own garden or allotment.

 By 2026 all councils throughout the UK will have to comply with regulations requiring them to operate separate food waste collections.  

There are around 15 million gardens in the UK. We call them ‘our’ gardens but of course that portion of the earth isn’t really ours – we’re merely its custodians for a while.

Once you see the difference you can make to that tiny patch of the planet, without much effort, you can’t help but become a compost convert.

Julie

What are Browns and Greens in composting?

 Many beginners ask this question when they start out composting.

The terms Browns and Greens can be a useful description for the carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich organic materials that are needed to provide composting creatures with a good diet.   

These insects and micro-organisms have basic requirements for food just like the rest of us. If the balance is wrong they won’t be as happy and won’t decompose the organic material as effectively. But don’t let this put you off.  Anyone who composts is constantly figuring out how much carbon to add to the bin. It becomes an interesting hobby and – dare we say it – fun.  

Nobody is going to come round giving your finished compost marks out of 10 (unless that’s the way you roll) and it’s unlikely you’ll get a mob of angry worms waving placards at your door. (If you do, be sure to upload the footage on YouTube.)

The micro-organisms need protein (which is rich in nitrogen) for growth, and sugar (rich in carbon) for energy, much of which is released as heat.

Dead leaves and woody waste, such as twigs and branches, are rich in carbon, and green grass and green leaves are rich in nitrogen. So, we think of carbon as Browns and nitrogen as Greens.

An image of a very full Green Johanna composter

When it comes to garden waste, it’s easy to remember that dead leaves and branches are Browns while fresh leaves and grass are Greens. But confusion can arise when it comes to waste that’s not from the garden. Not every brown item is carbon-rich and not all Greens are green in colour. For example, coffee grounds and manure might be brown but they’re not composting Browns; they’re rich in nitrogen, so are classified in composting terms as Greens.

Nancy Birtwhistle says in her book The Green Gardening Handbook that she finds the traditional Browns and Greens compost terminology confusing, preferring to think in terms of Wet and Dry contents.

 Michael Kennard, of the food-waste composting organisation Compost Club, makes the same point in his booklet How to Hot Compost – The Basics. He encourages beginners to think in terms of nitrogen and carbon content (C:N ratio).

The ideal C:N ratio is considered to be 30:1 but it would be difficult to calculate this exactly as every item has a different ratio. Most plant materials are a mixture of both, but more carbon than nitrogen as they get older and tougher.  

A good guide is to simply add equal amounts of carbon to nitrogen, then observe and make adjustments if your compost lets you know something is wrong. For example, if it starts to smell, there’s too much nitrogen (and poor aeration). If breakdown is very slow, there’s too much carbon.

Here’s a quick guide to common organic materials for composting:

GREENS: NITROGEN

  • Food waste
  • Fresh grass clippings
  • Fresh annual weeds
  • Flowers
  • Plant debris
  • Seaweed/kelp
  • Coffee grounds/filters
  • Tealeaves, tea bags (non-plastic)
  • Natural fabrics (cotton, wool) 
  • Herbivore manure

BROWNS: CARBON

  • Dead leaves
  • Shrub prunings – twigs, branches, stalks
  • Cardboard – tape and stickers removed
  • Pine needles/ cones
  • Corn cobs (may have to go through the composting process several times)
  • Brown paper bags, scrunched up
  • Sawdust from untreated wood
  • Straw
  • Cardboard egg boxes
  • Wood chips
  • Newspaper and junk mail

Keeping carbon

A little planning goes a long way when it comes to having enough carbon content to hand.  Gardens usually provide plenty of nitrogen in summer and carbon in autumn. Many people bag up and store dead leaves in autumn so that they’re readily available throughout the year. Store these leaves and other carbon-rich content near your compost bin in lidded containers or tied bags so they don’t get wet and start to break down.  Then when you add food waste or grass cuttings to the bin, you can add your carbon at the same time.  

Grass mowings are a good compost activator but if a large amount is added at one time the compost can become too wet and the grass can clump together. So, add grass in thin layers, alternating with layers of dead leaves or paper.

Remember that chopping or shredding Browns increases the surface area in contact with microbes in the pile, which makes for faster breakdown. Smaller pieces also make turning the pile easier.

A chipper/shredder can save time and effort or use a pair of hedge clippers to chop materials on a board.

 

What is hot composting?

Hot composting is a way of composting that uses various techniques to achieve higher temperatures than the traditional method of composting. As a result, you can add a wider variety of food waste and compost will be produced faster.    

A compost bin isn’t absolutely necessary for hot composting – you can hot compost in a large pile – but using a container makes the process more manageable and less messy.

Hot composters are designed to nurture heat-generating micro-organisms and to retain the heat they create as they break down organic waste and multiply.

For hot composting, you need the right ingredients in the correct proportions mixed properly.

What are the advantages?

Hot composting takes more effort than traditional composting but most people find it’s worth it for the benefits, such as:

  • A wider range of foods can be composted that are not usually recommended for composting, such as cooked food and meat.
  • Pests are deterred because food scraps break down faster at higher temperatures.   
  • Pieces of natural clothing, such as wool, cotton and linen, can also be added. These usually take a long time to break down in traditional composting (usually called cold composting).
  • Weeds can be killed at high temperatures.
  • Faster compost is produced in around 4-6 months. Cold composting takes between 6- 18 months.

Materials:

The eco system in a compost bin thrives on a balanced diet of nitrogen and carbon. Nitrogen is needed by the micro-organisms for growth and reproduction, while carbon provides them with energy.  

Nitrogen-rich materials are wetter and faster to break down. Carbon-rich materials are dry and slower to break down. In composting terms nitrogen materials are often referred to as Greens and carbon as Browns.

Nitrogen (Greens)

Food waste

Coffee grounds

Fresh green garden waste, such as grass mowings and green leaves

Wilted flowers

Seaweed/kelp

Tealeaves, tea bags (non-plastic)

Natural fabrics

Manure from herbivore animals

Carbon (Browns)

Dead leaves

Paper

 Cardboard

 Woody garden waste, such as twigs, branches and stalks

Wood chips from untreated wood

Sawdust from untreated wood

Pine needles/ cones

Straw

An image of a very full Green Johanna composter

Balance

Ingredients are added in proportions referred to as the Carbon: Nitrogen ratio (C:N ratio). The ideal C:N ratio is considered to be around 30:1 but it would be difficult to calculate this exactly as every item has a different ratio. Most plant materials are a mixture of both, but more carbon than nitrogen as they get older and tougher.  You don’t have to be too precise with this or worry about it too much.  

A good guide is to simply add equal amounts of carbon to nitrogen (followed by a thin covering layer of carbon to prevent smells), then observe the bin’s contents and make adjustments if your compost lets you know something is wrong.

For example, if your bin starts to smell unpleasant, it’s likely that there’s too much nitrogen and not enough air. If breakdown is very slow, there’s probably too much carbon.

Adding waste

Hot composting can be achieved using different methods; our focus here is on active home composting where householders use one or two bins in an ‘add as you go’ system, adding food waste as it occurs every couple of days, mixed with carbon content.

Aeration

Good airflow is essential for hot composting. The micro-organisms that create heat are aerobic so need oxygen to survive. This is achieved by regularly aerating the bin’s contents, stirring and turning the waste materials with an aerator stick.  

An image of a man mixing composter in a green johanna with the aerator stick

In the immediate aftermath of turning there will be a dip in temperature but ultimately it will result in a higher bin temperature for a longer time.

At the outset, covering the bin’s base with a layer of 15-20cms of twigs will help to create airflow through the contents.

Aerating compost:

  • Helps all materials to make their way to the heat in the middle and to decompose at an even rate. 
  • Prolongs the time that the bin stays at higher temperatures.
  • Helps to distribute water and nutrients to all areas. 

Moisture

Moisture is essential for efficient composting. The contents should be moist but not saturated, with a moisture content of roughly 50 per cent.

The consistency of compost should be damp like a wrung-out sponge.  You can check this by doing a squeeze test – take a few handfuls of compost from different parts of the bin and squeeze – only one or two beads of liquid should be visible.

If compost becomes too wet the water will deplete the amount of oxygen in the bin. Then microbes that thrive in anaerobic conditions will take over, causing slow breakdown and an unpleasant smell. In this case, you should add more carbon content and aerate well.

As micro-organisms become more active, they use up water, causing the compost to dry. In dry compost, microbes will not be active or reproduce.

 If you are regularly adding food waste, there will usually be enough water content in the bin. If you do need to add water, ideally use stored rainwater from a water butt added to a small watering can with a fine rose spray.

Chop or shred

For hot composting, it’s best to chop or shred the materials before adding them. This increases the surface area in contact with microbes in the pile. Smaller pieces – ideally 2 to 5 cm – also make turning the pile much easier.

If you have access to a shredder, you can shred Greens and Browns at the same time, blending materials as you shred. This creates a fine-textured mix that heats up quickly.

Alternatively, you can chop materials using a pair of hedge clippers and a board.

Large pieces will still break down but will take longer. You can get away with larger pieces if you also have other ingredients with a much smaller surface area, such as grass or sawdust.

 If items are too small, they can clump together, reducing the ability of air to circulate through the bin.

What happens?

When there’s enough carbon to fuel these billions of micro-organisms, enough nitrogen and water to help them grow, and enough oxygen to let aerobic bacteria thrive, composting magic happens.  

Heat builds in the bin and heat-loving bacteria multiply, breaking down the materials.

As the temperature increases in the bin, different populations of micro-organisms rise and fall, either going dormant, or becoming fodder for the next wave of bacteria that thrive in even hotter temperatures.

When temperatures are between 20-40 degrees Celsius, this is called the mesophilic phase; from 40-70 degrees Celsius is the thermophilic stage when fast, hot composting takes place.  If temperatures go above 72 degrees Celsius this is too hot for the aerobic micro-organisms to survive. This will cause the process to slow down or stall.

The power of observation

Composting depends on a blend of factors: contents, moisture, size of materials, size of bin, the composter’s efforts, climate and soil conditions.  Even neighbouring households will experience different outcomes due to a difference in diet.  

 Ultimately the best guide is your own observations – how your bin looks and smells. With experience you develop a feel for your materials and can tell what’s needed just by looking.

 Most people find the fact that they can influence the quality and speed of their compost a rewarding aspect of hot composting.  

Why a Green Johanna works well for hot composting

  • The Johanna has been designed so that vents take air in at the bottom to send it upwards through the bin. Incoming air goes up past the four ventilation plates on the inside of the base plate, past the maturing compost layer up into the decomposing compost where it provides oxygen for the micro-organisms.
  • Ventilation in the lid helps control airflow depending on conditions. Switch to minimum in cold weather to keep heat in the bin.
  • Use of the Insulating Jacket helps to control temperature.
  • The conical shape encourages compost to fall back into the centre and not stick to the sides.
  • The generous capacity of 330 litres means the mass of materials acts as an insulating factor.
  • The Green Johanna is recommended as a Best Buy by Gardeners’ World magazine and Which? consumer group.

For more information about composting in general we recommend A Gardener’s Guide to Composting Techniques by master composter Rod Weston.

Compost School – a guide for absolute beginners

An image of a grandad helping his grandchildren plant some flowers.

Composting is the best way to deal with organic waste. Our simple guide is aimed at beginners of all ages who want to learn more about the wonderful world of compost.  

What can I do about climate change?

Fighting the climate crisis is a big job, but it’s one that each of us can play a part in.

There’s something we can all do every day to help the planet, and it starts with changing which bin we throw our leftovers in. If we put organic waste (anything that was once alive) in a certain type of bin in a certain type of way, we can turn waste into something wonderful – compost.

 What is compost?

Compost is a nutritious food for soil. It’s made when organic materials are allowed to rot aerobically (with oxygen). Worms, insects and micro-organisms feed off decomposing food waste plus garden and paper waste.  As these composting creatures feed off organic matter, it’s broken down into smaller pieces until after several months it becomes a dark, crumbly substance that looks and smells a bit like soil. If you picked up a handful of compost you would no longer be able to tell what the original items were.

Compost is rich in nutrients which help to build strong, healthy soil and plants.

Why throwing away all rubbish is such a waste

People used to throw things away without thinking about it. For a long time, waste was burnt or buried underground at landfill sites. But now we know that these old ways of dealing with waste caused harm to the planet, to wildlife and to us – so we need to change our behaviour.

We can all help to protect the environment and we can do it in our homes, schools, sports clubs, restaurants and offices – wherever we produce waste.  

What can we do with rubbish?

A lot of waste is not rubbish, it’s a very useful resource. Instead of throwing everything away, if we separate items that can be reused or recycled, such as glass, paper and plastic, it means we’re not using up more and more of the earth’s precious resources.

Organic waste can be composted.  Composting is a way for waste to heal, not harm, the planet.                  

How much food waste do we produce?

The UK produces 4.5 million tonnes of food waste each year. To get an idea of how much that is, consider that an elephant weighs roughly 7 tonnes.  Those 4.5 million tonnes of food waste could fill eight Wembley stadiums. That could make A LOT of compost!

Decomposition:  the good, the bad and the ugly ways to rot

Bad – The bad way for things to decompose is in landfill sites.  Many local councils in the UK have stopped sending food waste to landfill; they now collect food waste separately from other waste so that it can be taken to treatment sites to be turned into soil food for farmland or into gas and electricity.

At landfill sites, organic waste (such as our food and garden waste) gets squashed together with non-organic waste, such as plastic and metal. Because air can’t get to the organic waste it can’t rot as it would naturally. Without air the breakdown process becomes anaerobic (without air).

Ugly – The anaerobic breakdown of organic waste produces greenhouse gases, such as methane, carbon dioxide and nitrous oxide, which trap heat within the earth’s atmosphere, contributing to climate change.

Greenhouse gases let sunlight pass through the atmosphere, but they prevent the heat that is produced from leaving the atmosphere. They get their name from greenhouses, which are full of windows that let in sunlight, creating warmth that can’t escape.

It makes sense to do everything we can to stop this from happening.

Good – One way to stop this is by composting.

What’s so great about compost?

When compost is added to soil it makes the soil healthier so that plants will be stronger and healthier too.

 It also helps soil to pull carbon dioxide (the most common greenhouse gas) from the air and pull it into the ground, so it’s stored in soil as carbon. Capturing and storing carbon dioxide (CO2) is called carbon sequestration and it plays an important role in fighting climate change.  

How does waste turn into compost?

Thousands of tiny composting creatures turn your food and garden waste into compost.     

The forest floor gives us a great example of the work done by composting creatures (also called decomposers). Although leaves fall from the trees each year, you don’t see giant leaf piles in the forest. This is because decomposers break down the leaves, which go back to feed the soil.

Some decomposers are well known, such as worms, beetles, centipedes, millipedes, woodlice and earwigs. There are also lesser-known creatures such as springtails and false scorpions.  Many more are so tiny, such as bacteria and fungi, they’re invisible to the human eye. We call these micro-organisms or microbes; we can only see them under a microscope.

When you’re composting, your goal is to create an ideal place for these creatures to live.

Where can we make compost?

The best place to make compost is in a compost bin.

You can also make compost in a big pile but it won’t be produced as quickly. When we help the composting process along we are creating the best conditions for the creatures inside the bin. This means that composting happens more quickly and efficiently so that we can have good quality compost faster than if we left the waste to rot on its own.

What is a compost bin?

A compost bin is a different kind of bin. We can’t just throw things in it and walk away as we do with an ordinary waste bin. There are some things we need to do to manage the composting process so that the composting insects and microbes stay healthy.

In a lot of ways, making compost is like making a cake.  By following nature’s recipe we add the right ingredients mixed well. But unlike making a cake, if we get it wrong it’s not a disaster. We can keep on improving until we get it right. When people start composting they learn as they go along.

If we observe what’s going on in the bin, we’ll soon realise if something needs correcting. We can all learn to ‘speak compost’!                                                 

Why is compost so important?

As well as helping to store carbon in soil, compost also:

  • Fills soil with essential nutrients so plants will be stronger and healthier because they will be resistant to diseases and pests. This means we don’t need to rely on pesticides and chemical fertilisers.
  • Rebuilds soil that is poor quality (degraded).
  • Covers exposed soil like a blanket. This stops the soil from wearing away (erosion) and losing carbon to the atmosphere.
  • Acts like a sponge to hold water in the soil (water retention). This means water is available for plants to use when they need it so they don’t need to be watered as often – so saving water. This is especially useful in dry spells when there isn’t much rain.
  • Helps to prevent flooding by holding on to excess rainwater.

Because compost is good for the soil, it’s a very valuable thing to do even if you’re not using it to grow plants. You don’t need to be a gardener to make compost.

Scientists estimate that 90 per cent of the earth’s soil is in very poor condition. Bare soil that is exposed to the elements can be worn away by sun and wind or washed away by rain.

How can we help the creatures in the compost bin to make good compost?

Like us, composting creatures need food, air and water.

Their food should come from a good balance of waste materials that we throw in the compost bin.

MATERIALS

Insects and micro-organisms work best if they are fed with food that helps them to grow and gives them energy. They grow thanks to protein in food that is high in nitrogen. They are given energy thanks to sugar in food that is rich in carbon. So a good balance between food that provides lots of nitrogen and food that provides lots of carbon gives them the best diet.      

Greens

Some people call nitrogen-rich waste ‘Greens’. Some of these items are green such as fresh green grass and fresh green leaves. But there are other things that aren’t green, such as: food waste, tea leaves, tea bags, coffee grounds, flowers. These items break down quickly and contain water so they keep conditions in the bin moist.

Browns

Waste materials that are high in carbon are sometimes called ‘Browns’. Some of these items are brown such as twigs, branches, dead leaves and cardboard.

Other things that are rich in carbon are:  paper, straw, wood chips, sawdust. These items are drier materials and slower to break down.

 A mixture that contains half Greens and half Browns is a great place to start for composting.

A very basic recipe for compost would be fresh grass (nitrogen) and dead leaves (carbon), but a more varied diet makes a more nutritious compost.

WATER

You want the compost pile to be moist, rather than wet or dry. The materials should feel damp like a wrung-out bath sponge.  Microbes struggle if their environment is too wet or too dry. They need water to live, yet too much moisture can limit the amount of oxygen they receive. If compost is too wet, it will start to smell bad. If this happens you need to add shredded paper and cardboard and mix really well to absorb moisture.

To check moisture levels, try this test – grab a big handful of compost and squeeze – only a drop or two of liquid should appear. Less than this means the compost might be too dry, more means it might be too wet.

If you need to add water to compost that is becoming dry, it’s best to use rainwater if you can rather than tap water as chemicals that are added to tap water and are safe for humans could kill some of the microbes that you’re trying to nurture in your compost bin.

Water butts are a good way of catching and storing rainwater.

OXYGEN

The fastest form of composting is done by organisms that need oxygen (aerobic).  

 To give microbes air to breathe we need to add air to the mixture by stirring the contents when we add waste. This is called aeration. Once a week give a good, deeper stir to make sure there’s oxygen through the bin’s contents.

To allow more air to flow, you can also wiggle a metal garden stake deep down into the compost making a hole.   

Why do we need to aerate compost?

If a compost pile lacks oxygen the aerobic microbes will die and the mixture will become anaerobic. This means the composting process will slow down and may to start to smell unpleasant. It may also start to attract flies, so it’s important that we keep air flowing through the compost.  

Mixing everything together well is an important part of composting because it helps to ensure:

  • Air is available throughout the compost so the microbes can breathe.
  • Moisture levels are kept satisfactory.

Can you add all food waste?

Ordinary compost bins carry out composting at fairly low temperatures which are suitable for breaking down fruit and vegetable scraps.  

But there is a way of composting called hot composting where the contents inside the bin reach higher temperatures of between 30 – 60+ degrees Celsius. This means that more kinds of waste can be added. With hot composting there are certain techniques to follow to ensure the temperature inside the bin reaches higher temperatures.

What can’t be composted?

Items that are not organic, such as glass, metals and plastic, cannot be composted. They can be recycled, of course; they can be cleaned, treated and used again.

 Plastic bags should never be added to a compost bin.

How long does it take to make compost?

In a hot composter, compost is usually ready for you to use after around four to six months. In an ordinary compost bin, it can take between six months to two years.

What does compost look like?

Your finished compost will be dark brown, crumbly and look like soil. Items that can be hard to break down, such as fruit stones or sticks, might still be visible but if you pick them out and add them back into the compost bin they will go through the breakdown process again.

Does compost smell?

Compost should smell fresh and earthy, like damp woodland; this means the composting process is working well.

If there is a bad smell, this means that contents are turning anaerobic – probably because there is too much water and nitrogen (Greens) in the mixture. You need to add carbon-rich content (Browns) and aerate well. So add shredded paper or torn cardboard, dead leaves, sawdust or wood chips and mix well until you get a consistency that is damp like a wrung-out bath sponge.

How can we use our compost?

  • Covering soil with compost or mixing it with compost adds nutrients and micro-organisms, making soil stronger and healthier.
  • If we cover exposed soil with compost (at least 5cms deep) that will help to prevent carbon loss and soil erosion.
  • We can use compost as protective coverage (called mulch) round trees and bushes and on lawns to feed the soil, hold onto water and discourage weeds.
  • We can use compost to cover vegetable beds and plants in plant pots to grow healthier plants.         

To use compost for stronger, healthier plants: 

  • Mix compost in with existing soil before planting into it.
  • Place some compost in holes before planting.
  • Soak your compost in water to create a nutrient-rich compost ‘tea’ that you can water plants with.

Can composting go wrong?

The most common problem with composting is if people forget to stir and aerate the contents in the compost bin. This means the composting creatures won’t have enough air so they might die.  This can lead to wet, slimy compost that smells bad.

But you can solve this problem by aerating well so that you put air back into the mixture. You can also add contents that contain a lot of carbon (Browns) such as chopped twigs, branches, wood chips, shredded paper and torn-up cardboard and mixing it all in well.                                                 

TOP COMPOSTING TIPS

  •  Before adding waste to a compost bin, make sure items are chopped up into small pieces so there is more surface area for microbes to work on. This means that more heat will be produced and breakdown will be faster. Smaller pieces also make turning the pile much easier.
  • You can chop up branches and twigs in a shredder machine or run over twigs or leaves with a lawnmower so they are in small pieces when added to the bin. Branches or twigs should be no large than 5cms.
  • People usually find they have a lot more nitrogen (food waste) than carbon (dead leaves, paper etc) so it’s a good idea to store carbon-rich items such as shredded paper, cardboard and wood chips so you have them ready to add with food waste.
  •  If you need carbon-rich items for your compost but you don’t have garden waste such as branches and leaves, you can also buy wood chips (small pieces of leftover wood) or get them free from gardeners or tree surgeons.
  • When tearing up cardboard boxes to add to compost, remove staples, sticky labels and tape.
  • Don’t add glossy paper as it may contain toxic pigments (harmful chemicals).
  • If adding torn-up birthday or Christmas cards, don’t add parts that contain foil, glitter or ribbons.
  • When adding eggshells crush them up first.  

Which composter is best for me?

An image of a green johanna

If you’re new to composting it can be difficult to know which bin (or system, if you like to think in systems rather than bins) is best for your home and lifestyle. Our handy guide can help.

Food waste composter/digester

The Green Johanna Hot Composter and Green Cone Food Waste Digester are both designed to accept foods that regular garden composters don’t, such as cooked food, meat, fish and dairy, so all your food waste can go in together. Compare them to see which one best suits your needs.

Green Johanna Hot Composter

  • Produces compost.
  • Also accepts garden waste.
  • Added waste should be a balance of nitrogen-rich content, commonly called Greens, (food waste/fresh grass cuttings/fresh green leaves) and carbon-rich content, commonly called Browns (chopped branches and twigs/wood chips/dead leaves/shredded paper and cardboard).
  • Comes with aerator stick provided to aerate the contents regularly.
  •  Ideally placed on soil or grass
  • One Johanna accepts the average food waste of a household of five and the garden waste from an average-sized garden.
  • With hot composting techniques, higher temperatures are reached than with regular composting.

Green Cone Food Waste Digester

  • Must be dug into a hole in free-draining soil (not clay or chalk).
  • Accepts all food waste, even bones.
  • Doesn’t accept garden waste or paper waste.
  • Doesn’t produce compost – instead it produces nutritious water which drains from its underground basket and feeds surrounding soil.
  • No turning or stirring required.
  • Uses solar energy so requires a sunny spot.
  • Comes with kitchen caddy provided.

Compost Tumbler (by Maze) 180 litre/245 litre

  • Takes kitchen waste and garden waste. Accepts cooked waste if chopped up into small pieces and mixed in well with other waste.
  • Cylindrical rotation design makes turning compost easy. Instead of manually stirring you turn the ratchet handle. The geared ratchet automatically locks rotation in any position.
  • Two compartments mean non-stop composting – when the first compartment is full you start on the second.
  • Can be hardstanding.
  • A cart is available so that finished compost can be removed and wheeled where you want it in the garden.

Traditional Garden Compost Bins

  • Usually used for cold composting at low temperatures.
  • Only take raw fruit and veg scraps, garden waste and paper/cardboard.
  • Require a 50/50 mix of nitrogen-rich Greens and carbon-rich Browns.
  • Available in plastic or wood. Plastic bins tend to be more robust but wood may be preferred for a natural look. 

Lack of space?

Worm farms

Worm farms, also called wormeries, are ideal for small-scale composting and for introducing children to the fascinating world of worms, which is an education in itself.

  • Require a sheltered spot.
  • Worms will digest many kinds of foods cut up into small pieces and other kitchen waste such as shredded paper, egg cartons, scrunched up newspaper.
  • A little management is needed to maintain the ideal environment for your worms, so be sure to read the instruction booklet.
  • Produce excellent worm-made compost – vermicompost – for your garden.
  • Learning fascinating facts about these tiny eco-heroes is sure to turn children into composters of the future.

Bokashi Bins

14 litre Maze Bokashi Bin
  • Kitchen food waste bins that can sit on a worktop or under a sink and accept all chopped-up food waste.
  • Food waste is fermented, resulting in a pre-compost mixture which can be added to a compost bin or wormery, buried in soil in the garden or in large planters in order to break down into compost.
  • Requires the addition of friendly bacteria in a bran or spray to accelerate fermentation.
  • When full of food waste, the container is left sealed for two to three weeks for fermentation to take place anaerobically (without air).
  • Nutritious liquid is drained from a tap at the bottom of the bin and can be used diluted as plant fertiliser or concentrated as organic drain cleaner.
  • Bokashi comes from the Japanese term for ‘fermented organic matter’.

Choosing a compost bin – by the experts

This advice – taken from a webinar by master composters from Garden Organic – provides extra help.

Wooden bins – a sustainable material – cheaper – allows the pile to breathe – looks natural and attractive in the garden – don’t add meat, fish, dairy or cooked food due to lower temperatures – a few bins can be placed together, with one or two left to mature while one keeps working.  

Blackwall compost converter – the most common bin – affordable – long-lasting – made from recycled plastic – useful for getting compost out (the bin can be lifted up and removed like a jelly mould) – a base plate is available but an added deterrent to rodents can also be achieved by digging the composter slightly into the ground and putting a  wire mesh under the base – channels of air can be created by plunging a broom handle into the contents.

Green Johanna – reaches higher temperatures – as an enclosed unit it offers greater rodent protection – the twistable top controls ventilation – the solid perforated base means liquid can drain out and micro-organisms can enter – if adding meat, add small amounts, mixed with lots of greens and browns – aerate the top layer every time you add materials – for speedier composting an insulating jacket is available. An alternative way of taking compost out, rather than accessing through the hatches, is to loosen the screws and lift off one or two sections.  Composting slows down in winter but the Johanna continues well and does better than other composters.

HOTBIN – versatile, takes all food waste and also perennial weeds – produces compost quickly – useful in school gardens – contains air channels – needs woodchips as a bulking agent – has a hard surface to discourage rats nesting underneath – requires more attention – more expensive but versatile.  

Wormery – small and self-contained – ideal for small amounts of waste – year-round composting – can be indoors – worms eat the bacteria on the organic matter – no spicy foods or citrus, only small amounts of meat – food scraps are placed on the top section, casts fall to the bottom. Use the worm-made compost on pot plants or round trees and shrubs. NOTE: If the liquid that is produced smells bad it has gone anaerobic and should be flushed away.

Also:

  • Wormery compost is a great improver to shop-bought compost; you can buy the cheapest of composts but turn it into black gold with the addition of your vermicompost.
  • Sheds are not a good place to house a wormery due to temperature fluctuations – a garage or indoors is better.
  • If you need your worms to move out of way as you harvest casts, add melon or banana – worms love these and will obligingly wriggle over to them.  
  • Don’t forget that with a wormery you are responsible for living creatures.

Bokashi bin – ferments waste instead of composting so the contents need to be transferred to a composter after a couple of weeks – this pre-compost  acts as an activator in your compost bin – Bokashi bran is needed – fermented contents of the bin will still be recognisable (some people expect compost) – produces liquid which can be used as a drain cleaner or diluted as fertiliser – good to use two bins to keep the process going – ongoing bran purchase required.

Tumblers – compost is kept off the ground so rodents are deterred.   

Electric kitchen composters – these grind waste as opposed to composting it.

Ridan – giant tumblers with a cog and gear system that makes the handle easier to turn – popular in schools and businesses.

Spare Parts